Billie Sherring

Chameleon

Chameleon is a capsule collection of high-end, ready-to-wear men’s streetwear. It prompts conversations about the tensions between conformity and individuality, challenging societal structures of control and self-expression. It explores how these can be dictated by dress, highlighting the duality of man and the capacity to morph through clothing. In doing this, the work emphasises the boundaries of uniform in the suppression of individuality. This idea is contrasted with streetwear, which becomes an outlet for self-expression within a contemporary fashion context.

Chameleon explores the contrast between military uniform and streetwear, aiming to expand key themes of my practice by highlighting the importance of individuality in dress and emphasising the capability of clothing to morph man. The work challenges existing narratives in which clothing suppresses individuality by viewing the complex layers of a person beneath their uniform as fragments of a kaleidoscope.

Screen-printing is used as a means of textile manipulation. The complex overlapping of organic, hand-drawn layers with precise, controlled patterns embodies the dual layers of man and emphasises the consequences of forcefully suppressing individuality. This personification of man’s complexities aims to overwhelm the eye of onlookers.

The collection aligns with existing narratives within streetwear. It prioritises a sense of self and freedom, fostering authentic self-expression. While streetwear can take many forms, the collection introduces extremely oversized silhouettes to show a lack of forced structure and control, while referencing the laid-back approach to streetwear. The final outcome is a capsule collection of pieces that can be rearranged and styled in many ways. This speaks to the customisable nature of streetwear.

As an emerging designer, I understand the importance of what has come before. Using the past as building blocks for creation sits at the core of my practice. Chameleon is built on a foundation of archetypal garments to ensure it remains grounded and recognisable in contemporary fashion contexts. Referencing archetypal military uniform also contributes to the collection’s conceptual ideas. This brings the stripping of individuality through uniform into the conversation, in contrast with references to freedom of expression through streetwear.

I aim to contribute to a future where fashion is a means of self-expression. Chameleon recognises this, bringing it into the conversation by embodying the contradiction between freedom and control.