Zoe Langley

‘Someone will remember us in the future’, the collection title, is taken from a fragment of Sappho’s poetry. This collection aims to provide bridal wear for those desiring beautiful, luxurious pieces without losing their identity to the cloned silhouette that has rendered so much of modern bridal wear indistinguishable. The looks stray from harmful traditions rooted in oppression, whilst still feeling unique and inherently ‘bridal’. They also provide opportunities for broader gender expression, creating space for those who blur the gender binary that restricts so many. This is a form of political activism, suggesting an alternative: the pieces retain the sense of romance and occasion while reimagining what it feels and looks like to be a bride.

Themes are drawn from ‘La Garçonne’, a look that defined the 1920s, heavily popularised by Coco Chanel. The look celebrated the rise of feminism and liberation, as the First World War had pushed women into the workforce, leading to a feeling of social independence. It was visualised through drop waists and shorter hemlines on womenswear, as well as women adopting men’s suits and button-up shirts. That a feminist rebellion was expressed through adopting typically masculine clothing, empowering as it was, is also somewhat sad in its implication that women had to become masculine to be considered equal or empowered. Rather than women being accepted by redefining femininity on its own terms, freedom still had to be associated with becoming more like a man. This collection mixes masculinity and femininity for the sole purpose of being inclusive of those who do not feel personally represented within the gender binary, or who prefer non-typical clothing – certainly not because the addition of masculinity implies power or equality. The rebellious spirit of the 1920s Garçonne movement, however, is what I have adopted.

Langley is driven by the tension between strength and softness, romance and rebellion, historical references and contemporary culture. I want my garments to feel emotionally significant as well as physically beautiful, and I believe this collection does exactly that.